A Trip to Guiyang... revisiting Walmart three years later
Ok... so we needed coffee grounds for my Java Man Scott, peanut butter for a little protein with our breakfast cinnamon walnut bread, and dental floss to dig out all the itty-bitty pieces of pork and onions and various vegetables that wedged themselves between our teeth. Guiyang, the capitol of Guizhou Province, was the only place to go for these items. We had tried to find coffee grounds for Scott's daily caffeine jolt, but all we could find were packets of instant coffee, prepared capachino style. This was true three years ago, too, although the number of coffee shops in Guiyang as well as in the smaller towns has grown rapidly in three years.
We needed a little peanut butter for breakfast. As we searched the shelves, I remember my dear buddy Sally McClintock telling me about taking peanut butter to China with her family, years ago. She viewed it as a little bit of home, a taste of comfort amidst a Chinese cuisine that can be vastly different than what Westerners usually consume. She always packed a jar in her suitcase. A wise woman.
The area surrounding the Walmart has changed dramatically in just three years. In 2011, an imitation Louvre Museum structure covered the entrance to the Walmart, which was buried deep underground. Scott and I are both adamantly opposed to shopping at Walmart, as this immensely wealthy international company treats their employees with very little dignity or respect... often closing up shop in any given town where union activity becomes organized. We found it ironic that the Guiyang Walmart is in the bowels of the city. Further, the Walmart is directly across from the enormous statue of a saluting Chairman Mao.
And indeed, there is a KFC connected to the Walmart. Of course. Anytime Scott mentioned he was from Kentucky, he was usually answered with , "Oh... Kentucky Fried Chicken!" Pizza Hut, by the way, is where many young adult Chinese take their dates to make a good impression.
Three years ago, the above-ground area associated with the Walmart was under major construction. Now, there is a massive sculpture, which looks something like a conglomeration of chopsticks. The area is now a gathering space, open for dancing and musicians. We were delighted to find some musicians playing traditional Chinese instruments in a pavilion. A beautiful contrast to the hustle-bustle of Walmart.
A very special thanks to Jack, one of Scott's students who accompanied us on this Guiyang journey, as well as many of our weekend journeys. Jack's command of English was excellent, and he was so helpful with bridging communication. Jack is a middle school teacher, seeking new ways to engage his students. He already uses a great deal of Western music to pull his students into their study of English. He treats his students as friends and family, always encouraging them to dream and challenge themselves.
We also visited our friend Chris at the Highlands American Coffee Shop. In 2011, we purchased coffee grounds and a coffee press at Chris' shop. We also sampled his no-sugar-held-back version of American cheesecake. This place holds a special memory for Scott and me, as this is where we met Claire and her mother. After conversation, Claire invited us to have dinner with her family. They guided us to a restaurant in another part of Guiyang, where we ascended to a very elegant restaurant via a street -level elevator. Claire invited her father, her English teacher, and other special people in her life to join us for dinner. The highlight of the dinner was when Claire's father broke out singing, in a beautiful tenor operatic voice. We recognized the tune but not the words, as he was singing "O Sole Mio" in Mandarin. We then proceeded to swap songs, sharing our love of music from East and West. Her father even broke the taboo about talking about politics, asking us what the West thinks about the human rights policies in China. A most memorable, engaging evening.
Take a look at the food offerings at the Walmart. Most of the poultry and fish are simply on ice, devoid of the antiseptic packaging we are accustomed to in the West. As you probably know, all parts of the animals are used here in China. Nothing is wasted or discarded. A delicacy, when eating fish, is the fish cheek. Amy Tan has written a story called "Fish Cheeks." Many of our Chinese friends offered us the fish cheeks at meals, both welcoming us and reminding us that we are "honored guests." Another gracious and warm custom that made us feel welcome and loved...
You bring back many wonderful memories. I took each of my afternoon classes to the Highland House for some great ice cream delights!
ReplyDelete